We’re not on Beverly Boulevard, we’re in Italy. In Northern Italy actually, Rome perhaps. In a lively neighborhood of Rome, where Italian families come share a plate of pasta on a Sunday night, and where the hands do all the talking. This is pretty much it, except that Reese Witherspoon and Taylor Swift just sat down at the next table, waking you up from your dream and reminding you you are in Beverly Hills, in a windowless bunker to hide from all the paparazzis. Interestingly, if you Google Image “Madeo”, you’ll only see two pasta dishes amid countless tabloid photos. But let’s get back to our main focus here, food: there’s an osso bucco which has been cooked for hours to get the perfect tenderness, which is when the meat almost falls apart into the sauce and you need to dive in with a spoon. The spaghetti bolognese are undoubtedly the best in town, because the pasta is slightly under-cooked and the sauce made with fresh tomatoes, carrots, celery, white wine and veal ragu. The fluffy gnocchi are swimming in a pesto sauce with Gorgonzola and tomatoes, and they keep that intense potato flavor. Madeo has been owned by the same Italian family since it opened, and every night the owner walks around the restaurant to shake hands with the regulars and welcome newcomers in an enthusiastic gobbledygook. He will obstinately talk to you in Italian, even if you don’t understand a word. All these traditions, in addition to the quality of the food, create the endearing “old school” charm of this Beverly Hills staple.
Address: 8897 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
Opening hours: Monday-Friday 12-11PM, Samedi 18h-23h, Dimanche 17h30-22h30
Reservations: (310) 859-4903
Price: Pasta $28-38, Entrées $28-58
Neighborhood: Beverly Hills
Best for: Dinner