Ljubljana is one of the smallest capitals in Europe, and is undeniably one of the most exquisite cities one can visit. It is the cultural, economic and political hub of Slovenia and has much to offer the intrepid traveller. You can find this charming city nestled between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia and is deeply influenced by these diverse and rich countries. Ljubljana was under Habsburg rule from the Middle-Age until 1918 and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Following the Second World War, the country became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Slovenia, which itself was part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. It wasn’t until 1991 that it gained its independence, and Ljubljana became the new capital. The country, as well as the city have been deeply marked by its past, but is now a fascinating intellectual center. The Slovenian people are extremely kind and generous, as well as being very proud of their cultural heritage, and of their food. Many chefs and restaurants promote their own cuisine, made with local and seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss eating your way through this vibrant country: Soča River Trout, Štruklji, Potica and Kranjska Klobasa.
Eat
– TaBar. This place is super central and easy to find. The decor is very upmarket, chic and understated. They make tapas with a Slovenian twist, and work with a variety of local and seasonal produce to create some unique delicious morsels. They have a diverse wine list that comes from all over Europe, but TaBar also have some delectable local wines (look out for any made by: Bjana, Burja, Edi Simčič or Čotar), great gin list too. This spot is too cool for its own good.
– Skaručna. We can’t emphasize this enough, this place is not for the faint of heart. The chef here is nothing short of a genius… or is he mad? It’s a difficult line to tread. True creative flair is a rarity, and this man is an eccentric culinary virtuoso. The food here is divided into seven sections : Bar snacks, quick lunch, business lunch, Skaručna lunch, children’s lunch, vegetarian lunch or happy day/wedding lunch. It’s traditional Slovenian cuisine, but on a completely different level. Great ingredients and an amazing wine list. Don’t leave Ljubljana without coming here.
– Luda. This place is where one comes for divine Slovenian food that heals the soul. Exquisite and delicate presentation with local ingredients, seasonality is a passion here. They change their menu every few weeks, so one can come often and always be surprised. Prized by locals, this is a little bijou everyone needs to know about. The prices, like many eateries in Ljubljana are reasonable and affordable. You will be hard-pressed to find the same quality in many other capital cities for these prices.
– Grič. If you have ever wondered what restaurants you would put on your “lifetime top ten”, then this may be a very good candidate. Or at least, the people that come here make that conclusion. The chefs at Grič want to promote the country they love, and use only Slovenian produce. This is where the Slow Food Movement is truly understood and encouraged; everything on your plate is local and seasonal. Absolutely everything. The food here is traditional with a modern twist, and is honest and comes from the heart. You can find this place slightly outside of Ljubijana.
– Strelec. This fine dining restaurant can be found in the famous Ljubijana castle (in the archer’s tower no less!), and is a delectable feast for your tastebuds (and the view is as breathtaking as the food). Nothing here will confuse the weary traveller, no curious combinations or fusion food at this restaurant. It is classic contemporary cuisine, but a few dishes certainly do stand out: Sulec freshwater trout or a very gratifying apple strudel. The chef (Igor Jagodic) has been named multiple times as the best chef in the country, and it definitely isn’t for nothing. Don’t hesitate and try the various tasting menu options.
– Gostilna Na Gradu. This place has won many awards, and understandably so. The food is inspired by the twenty-four separate gastronomic regions in Slovenia, and here they are experts at the many traditional dishes that scatter this country. The location (in a palace) and the decor are very unique, and if you feel that the place is particularly pmarket, the prices will in fact surprise you. They have managed to keep the restaurant grounded; it’s all about great food and speedy service. The wines are very well selected, and the beers come from a local micro-brewery. Our favourite dishes here : any of the homemade pastas or ravioli!
– Kucha. For the traveller looking for a more vegetarian and vegan friendly place in Ljubljana, Kucha is the perfect spot. Gourmet freshly baked pizzas that look like they were shipped from Naples, delicious fruit and veggie bowls as well as salads, homemade cheeses, yoghurts, and freshly made natural beverages (kombucha anyone?). The atmosphere here is very quaint and cute, and the decor is absolutely very instagrammable. Come for the pizza nights: you won’t leave hungry.
Drink
– Kolibri. This place is like taking a step back in time, with gilt mirrors, delightful tropical forest inspired wallpaper and old-fashioned accessories; it’s a magical eclectic space to enjoy an amazing cocktail in Ljubljana. Kolibri was founded in one of the oldest parts of the city. They really try to pay homage to the past and the role the surrounding area played in distilling alcohol. The drinks here are all inspired by old recipes for tinctures, bitters and herbal remedies, as well as their homemade cordials and infusions. Don’t be surprised if you see anything apothecary themed; you can pretend you’re enjoying a naughty cocktail in a pharmacy!
– Cutty Sark. If you’re looking for a good time without any frills, then this is the place to go. They have an open plan fun terrace, and during the winter season, they have a fire pit in the middle to keep you warm! You won’t feel out of place here with a pint of the amber nectar in your hand, and some yummy snacks in the other. Most nights it has live music, and a great selection of bottled and beer on tap, be it local or imported. This is a great spot to let your hair down.the crowd is young and the prices reflect that.
– Metelkova. This is not a bar, but more of an autonomous area in Ljubljana, where the underground art scene meets hip bars and street art. It’s actually inside a few ex-military barracks, and is truly a cultural hub of the city. If you aren’t afraid of a bit of an adventure, then come here. This isn’t a place for those afraid of the punk attitude, but those looking for a home made back-alley drink; the “Bear Blood” shot, or the local Pivo (beer). The people here are always great fun, and you will have no trouble finding someone to converse with. It’s definitely a lot of fun! Try Jalla Jalla, a bar in the area that subsequently sells the cheapest beer in the city. It gets quite busy in the evening, which is no surprise once you make it here!
– Makalonca. This place is located near the river and undeniably gives you some amazing views of Ljubljana, as well as being right on the Ljubljanica as well. They make pub-inspired food with local Slovenian ingredients, but most people will come here for their really fantastic hot drinks during winter (hot lemonade, coffees, teas and hot chocolates) as well as their alcoholic drinks. Pop over after a walk around town and you can relax your weary legs with a view. They also have great pancakes and breakfasts.
– Vinoteka Movia Wine Bar. The team at Movia have a great sparkling wine that they make themselves. Our personal favourite is the rosé. They also have a truly amazing selection of regional Slovenian wines, as well as Croatian. For those looking to learn a bit more, while enjoying a relaxing glass or two of wine, Movia is a great choice. They sell natural, biodynamic, and organic wines, as well as classic-method wines. The sommeliers and waiters who work there are extremely knowledgeable, so do not hesitate to talk to them, they will be happy to answer any of your wine questions. The decor is simple and chic. The bar is also a lively spot to do some people watching too. Movia is in fact the biggest and most famous wine exporter and producer in the country. During the Summer they also have good outside seating area if you want to enjoy Ljubljana’s sun.
– Dvorni. This is another wine bar in Ljubljana, the decor is colourful and homely, and the service is attentive and pleasant. They have some truly amazing wine and for every budget, from the delicious Batič wine group, to Edi Simčič, as well as the famous Movia, Bjana, Burja, Edi Simčič, Dveri Pax, Čotar & Istenič wines too. The wine list is extensive and exclusively Slovenian (or regional). This will be a great place to start (with tapas also available) and may inspire you to visit the wineries after!
– Club K4. If you are looking to dance the night away, or partake in an alternative evening, then Club K4 may the place to visit. From this club rayonates techno, drum & bass and house music. Historically this has always been a safe space for gay culture, and continues to this day with its LGBT evenings. It focuses on presenting various electronic music live music nights. It’s an exciting place to grab a drink and party until the sun rises.
– Daktari. The decor here is super groovy with antique furniture, Persian rugs, bookshelves overflowing with old volumes, as well as funky wallpaper. You will always feel at home here, be it with their enchanting drinks but also the diverse evenings that they organise; be it literary evenings, concerts or even movie screenings. If you end up staying a bit longer than expected, don’t fret, they also sell pretty decent sandwiches too.
– Pivnica Lajbah. If you enjoy craft beer, you would be hard-pressed to find anywhere in the city better suited to your needs. They have an extensive selection of beer on tap (23 at all times). They are really serious about craft beer here. Ask the bar staff for recommendations, they will be happy to help you out, and will more often than not offer you a bit to taste before you order too. They also serve bar food too. They also have a really big and comfortable terrace outside, as well as plenty of space inside. Bright and airy decor.
Do
– Wine tours. Not many people are aware that Slovenia is a colossal wine producer, and is greatly underappreciated in the wine drinking world. The Slovenian people are very protective of their wine and only export 20% of it, and that is probably because it is absolutely delicious. The country is more well known for it white wines but they also have devine red wines, and most of the varieties will be unheard of to most wine consumers (varieties such as Zelen, Friulano, Malvazia, Rebula, Refošk…) . Do not ponder too long when you are here to take a wine tour and degustation. It’s a great way to immerse oneself in the local culture. The Slovenians are gracious and generous hosts, and you will undoubtedly be offered free prosciutto ham and bread when tasting their wines.
– Culinary tours. From wine tours to food tours : the many on offer are a great excuse to meet new people and try new things, but our favourite are Ljubljananjam Food Tours, where you are truly treated like one of the locals. They will teach you about the history of what you’re eating, but also feed your mind and you belly! Reservation is a must.
– Walking tours. Ljubljana is a vibrant city, with a rich cultural history, one of the best things to do is go for a pleasant walk (or fun bike ride!) on the cobblestone streets. Discovering the city on foot is probably the best way to see the city, and one thing you will notice is the amount of bridges here. Each one has its one unique story, and looking them up as you take in the views, will be a great way to learn about the history of Slovenia without stepping into a museum! You can also book a walking tour too, and many can be booked online.
– Around town. You can’t come to the capital city without visiting the Ljubljana Castle. Start from the center, walk past the river bank, grab a coffee (try Kavarna Čopomana, they also have terrific cakes) and walk up to the impressive hilltop castle, located just above the city. You can also reach the castle by tram (or by funicular, which at 5€ is a steal and is a lot of fun!). The Ljubljana Castle is much like a time machine, taking visitors back in time to the various periods of the country’s past. It also has a great courtyard and restaurant (Strelec) to eat at and enjoy the views.
– Art. Ljubljana also has many museums and galleries, and one must not miss the National Gallery or Gallery of Modern Arts. You can really relax and enjoy some Slovenian art, something you will unlikely never see outside of the country itself. If you’re more into the past, then maybe the Slovene Ethnographic Museum is more up your street, but one museum not to be missed is the strange and bizarre Museum of Illusions. The unsuspecting visitor will be taught how easily our brains can be tricked, bamboozled and manipulated. Check out Galerija Alkatraz, near the Metelkova area, great street art as well as strange statues. A must see.
– Theatre/Music. If you’re looking for something a bit different to do, then Kižanke may be the place for you. This unique theatre venue is for theatre and music. It’s located in a previous convent for priests and seminarians. Since 1952, it has been a center for a variety of the city’s music festivals. During the summer, the courtyard is also used to showcase musicians and actors. The best way to enjoy this place is to look up and book online.
– Sleep. Looking for somewhere to sleep that isn’t the average hotel room? Well Hostel Celica used to be a military prison, and each cell has been transformed into a small bedroom. Once home to murderers and prisoners, you can now sleep there, but also listen to live music, eat and drink at its café, as well as view artwork from local artists there. Not everyone will have the same experience here ; each room has been designed by a different international artist, and a day here is never the same.
– Further afield. Most people who come to Slovenia do so because of the amazing chef Ana Roš and the restaurant she owns with her partner, sommelier Valter Kramer: Hiša Franko. This place can now be found at number 48 on the top 50 Pellegrino list. This place is a two hour drive from the capital, but is well worth the effort. The scenery surrounding the place is indescribably bucolic, and the food is a culinary trip in itself. Slovenian food at its best. You will not find better service than here, and their sommelier Alen is a testament to the future of the slovenian wine world. Watch out for Luka and Matjaž; they will take your evening from happy to heavenly. Amazing service. So, take your car, spend the night and expect to be knocked off your feet by Slovenian generoricity. Don’t miss the Tolmin cheese and the famous Franko bread, it’s worth waiting until the end of the meal to taste these treats!
– City break. Slovenia isn’t the biggest country in the world, so rent a car and visit tourist hot-spots like Bled (everyone loves a beautiful church on an even prettier lake) or Piran and watch a sunset surrounded by salt mines. Maribor, the second largest city, has the oldest vines of the country, and you can taste some of the best regional wine there too (look up “old vine”). If you enjoy stalactites and stalagmites, then Postojna cave may be a great place to start (there are many more caves in Slovenia), but if walking around under the ground and in the cold isn’t your idea of heaven, then maybe taking a trip to one of the many health spas around the country could be a slightly more relaxing alternative. The Dolenjska Toplice Spa is a firm favourite, it may be because of the amazing hotel and spa… but it may also be because of its beautifully lush surroundings.
– Extra curricular. Bet you didn’t know olive oil is also produced in Slovenia, and if you happen to visit the Slovenian Istria, it has the largest quantity of olive groves, (but you can also find some in the Brda Hills, Karst Region and the Vipava Valley; they both have amazing wines too!). The olive oil itself has a distinctive bitter and spicy flavour, and many Slovenian chefs use it in their cuisine.
This review was written by In The Loup contributor Roxane Laslett.