Mexico City is quite like Paris in the sense that there’s never enough time to cover everything in one trip. It’s a city that deserves to be discovered in waves, first hitting all the “must-do” stops, then coming back for the lesser-known alternatives, and at last returning to hang out like a local. When the camareros at Contramar know you by your name, you know you’ve finally hit the sweet spot.
Eat
– Contramar. Contramar is an institution in Mexico City, which deserves to be done the proper way. Always book ahead, making sure you ask for a table on the terrace. Go for a long lunch or early dinner, while the sun is still out. Order the atun tostada and the pescado a la talla, along with a few mezcal margaritas. Contramar is a ballet of old-school waiters dancing around with large platters of the simplest, and yet the best food in the country. Two good alternatives would be El Cardenal and Nico’s, although nothing can compare with Gabriela Camara’s Contramar.
– Pujol. Enrique Olvera’s world-famous Pujol should be the only Michelin-starred restaurant you should visit in Mexico, if any. Book online weeks in advance and choose between the regular menu and the taco omakase, depending on your liking. A back-up option would be Quintonil, another “50 Best” in this town, although the setting isn’t as pleasant.
– Maximo Bistrot. Eduardo Garcia and his wife Gabriela brought a bit of Parisian bistronomy back to the Roma neighborhood of DF, and made it into a perfect place to enjoy a European-style dinner. Their other spot Lalo is also great for lunch.
– Rosetta. Set in a XIXth century palace, Rosetta is the epitome of romantic and iconic Italian restaurant, with high ceilings and a small terrace. Rosetta also has amazing bakeries called Panaderia Rosetta, but you can also find them at Café NIN: order a guava croissant!
– Fonda Margarita. The classic breakfast place popularized by Bourdain and plenty of other chefs. If you’re looking for a hipper breakfast spot, try Eno in the Polanco neighborhood, Enrique Olvera’s (Pujol) more laid-back breakfast and lunch spot.
– La Bipolar. Barbacoa is a Sunday tradition in Mexico City, and you should head to La Bipolar if you choose to partake in this weekly ritual at least once in your life! If you’re looking for a meat-heavy meal on other days of the week, Lardo is your spot.
– Markets. Mexico City’s markets would surely deserve their own paragraph in this article, from Mercado San Juan to Mercado Medellin and Mercado San Cosme. There are also plenty of food stands around those markets, such as the quesadillas “Las Dieteticas” right around the corner from Coyacan Market: get the gordita de chicharron! There are also the Tostadas Coyacan at the back of Coyacan Market, where you should get the tinga and pulpo.
– Churreria El Moro. The classic churreria with tiles you’ve probably seen all over Instagram, and iconic whirlwind-shaped churros.
Drink
– Le Tachinomi Desu. This is the coolest Japanese bar in Mexico City (if there are any other out there), with an excellent natural wine selection.
– Maison Artemisia. A multi-story house with great cocktails and old furniture.
– Casa Franca. This one is another house-turned bar on top of a pizzeria, with live jazz on late nights.
– Loup Bar. A few minutes away from Rosetta, Loup Bar is a Parisian-style natural wine bar where chefs end up after service. Make sure you do the same!
– Paramo. This is a loud restaurant and bar, filled to the rims on weekends.
– Baltra Bar. A cool wine bar where they also cut up some cured ham à la minute.
– Felina Bar. There are mid-century modern vibes and great rum cocktails at Felina.
Do
– Casa Luis Barragan. The iconic architectural masterpiece Casa Barragan should be the first thing you book after your plane tickets. Feel free to stop for mole handmade by Lucila at Casa Merlos right next door after your tour — but not before, as service is super slow! Casa Gilardi is another Barragan house which is privately owned, but can be toured for 300 pesos.
– Casa Azul. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s house should also be booked online ahead, and you can stop by Mercado Coyacan after your visit. If you’re hungry for more Rivera, he designed the Anahuacalli museum which now hosts his paintings and studio.
– Museo Jumex. A new contemporary art museum with world-class exhibitions.
– Museo de Antropologia. If you have the time, this is a must to understand the different stages of Mexican civilization.
– Palacio de Bellas Artes. This art deco building is home to beautiful murals and a stunning collection, right by the Templo Mayor and the Cathedral. But most of all, don’t miss the Palacio de Correos right next to it, probably one of the most breathtaking post offices you’ll ever see.
– Biblioteca Vasconcelos. A library with quite interesting design, and you can stop by the mariachi plaza on your way there.
– Castillo de Chapultepec. This is a European-inspired castle that housed Mexico’s emperor on the top of a hill with a view all over the city.
– Arenas México. The famed lucha libre shows, for which you should buy tickets online or take your chance at the door.
– Teotihuacan. This archeological site is an hour away from the city (go early as soon as it opens to avoid crowds and the sun: use Uber!) with the third biggest pyramid in the world. If you must have lunch there, do it at La Gruta in a grotto, but you should be done in time to head back to the city for lunch.