Critics often say that a restaurant is the brainchild of so and so, but with Ronan, it’s actually the case: owned and helmed by chef Daniel Cutler and his wife Caitlin, this restaurant has grown with love and character — and it looks as charming and fun as its parents seem to be. Daniel Cutler was previously at Sotto, recalled by many as the best pizza in Los Angeles, and he’s also the creator of Jonathan Gold’s beloved chicken liver pate at Alimento. You’ll find a similar version on Ronan’s menu, with barolo chinato, foie gras, flame raisins and a side of pane carasau, a traditional flatbread from Sardinia. His pies as good if not better, with a dough that’s fermented for 48 hours (gluten-sensitive people, rejoice!), all blistered and charred just as it should be. Favorites include the Zucca with zucchini blossoms and a radical calzone called The Philippe, but the best one remains the “Sweet Cheeks”, which Cutler used to make for his wife at Sotto: housemade guanciale (from Peads and Barnetts, no less), ricotta forte and a drizzle of ‘pepe honey’. Ronan will also surprise you with delicious cocktails and mismatched tableware, along with small and larger plates: a pillowy burrata, spicy clams, or fennel pollen-dusted pork chop which the chef butchers himself. Nobody takes themselves too seriously at Ronan, and their weekly pop up Parm Boyz Sundays is a clear example of that — try it for yourself, indulge and have fun with the team. Their large patio is also perfect for a drink during ‘Golden Hour’, and any evening should end sharing a dessert with several spoons. Caitlin, who used to be at Huckleberry and Hatchet Hall, has a sweet tooth and her talent is shown in their Rye or Die chocolate caramel tart and woodfired cheesecake. At Ronan, Caitlin and Daniel Cutler have performed the somersault of LA restaurants: it definitely feels like you’re at a neighborhood joint, even when you’ve traveled from the other side of town. It’s a mom-and-pop restaurant, in every sense of the word.
Style: Italian American
Address: 7315 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046 (West Hollywood)
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 4:30-10PM, Friday-Saturday 4:30-11PM, Sunday 4:30-9:30PM
Menu: ronanla.com
Price: Plates $4.5-28, Pizzas $18-27
Reservations: (323) 917-5100 or Resy