There was a time when Auguste Escoffier ruled supreme. A time when pêche melbas graced tables from Paris to Pasadena and Le Guide Culinaire was akin to the chef’s bible. At Pasjoli, Dave Beran wants to turn back the clock and bring classical French cooking into the fold once again. Beran’s 18-seat Michelin-starred restaurant, Pasjoli is a relatively more accessible and casual dining experience. The menu follows an à la carte format, highlighting the versatility of French cuisine while veering away from dishes more commonly referenced at state-side bistros. An outstanding meal at Pasjoli can unfold in many ways but highlights begin in the cold hors d’oeuvres section with a bright crab and cauliflower salad and impeccable slice pâté en croûte. Moving deeper into the menu reveals stunners like an ethereal scallop quenelle basking in a caviar beurre blanc or the heart-warming caramelized onion and gruyère tart. For guests looking to splurge early on in their meals, golden ossetra caviar, portioned tableside with the aid of an 18th century British postal scale, ought to do the trick. For others looking for a more subdued evening out, main courses like the roasted poussin with champagne jus or seared snapper with melted leeks hit equally as high notes. It would be remiss not to mention the showstopper of the night, and what is bound to become the restaurant’s signature dish, the canard à la Rouennaise a la presse. Beran’s ode to the Escoffier classic, a whole roasted duck for two, appears tableside before the legs and breasts are neatly carved, carcass pressed, and the dish is finished with a bloody bordelaise. It’s truly a spectacle to witness and a worthy of trying at least once. While one can do no wrong by ending a meal with a chocolate soufflé, for those still looking for a show, the baba au rhum is the way to go. Order one and a server will wheel over a dessert cart to your table, split open the cake and invite you to pick your poison before dousing the brioche and topping it with a dollop of freshly whipped chantilly. A small carafe of rum will be left behind for your enjoyment and it’s a perfect way to close out a meal at one of the finest restaurants in Los Angeles.
Style: French
Address: 2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405 (Santa Monica)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 8AM-10PM
Menu pasjoli.com
Price: Starters $19-36, Entrees $36-54
Reservations: Resy
This review was written by In The Loup contributor Ash Narayan