Spago

Spago is the epitome of fine dining in Los Angeles, perhaps neck-and-neck with Providence. Those who mourn the departure of the Red Guide also cite Spago as an example of a “Michelin-starred restaurant” as if it were another era. But Wolfgang Puck’s legendary flagship does not deserve to be reduced to a starred restaurant: it is a lovely patio hidden behind Rodeo Drive, where you can’t even hear the cars roaring while you’re comfortably sitting below the olive trees. The Godfather Puck chose Lee Hefter (a James Beard award winner) as his executive chef, and Japan-born Tetsu Yahagi as his chef de cuisine. This polyglot brigade creates a nomadic and seemingly simple cuisine, waltzing between French, Italian, Japanese and Austrian influences in both the food and wine list. The truffle agnolotti are a must, the lobster cobb salad is a small stomachs’ delight, and their chirashi rivals the best Japanese restaurants in town. The only disappointment remains their salmon pizza (dubbed “Jewish pizza” by our waiter) which doesn’t live up to its reputation. You will no longer be hungry by then, but the desserts are terribly regressive: warm cookies and milk, chocolate soufflé, millefeuille…