A literal paradise at the end of the world, the islands of Tahiti are a dream come true: postcard-like landscapes, infinite turquoise lagoons, magical mountains, multicolored fish, enchanted lands… These are the islands that fascinated James Cook, Paul Gauguin, Jacques Brel, Marlon Brando, Herman Melville, Jacques Cousteau, among others. Beyond the clichés of coconut trees, vahines and ukuleles, the people of Tahiti really make all the difference, because they wear their heart on their sleeve. Often called “the trip of a lifetime”, French Polynesia will make you want to come back immediately.
Tahiti
Crowned by majestic peaks, Tahiti is the largest island in French Polynesia. The mountainous interior is adorned with mystical valleys, clear rivers and impressive waterfalls. The inhabitants mostly reside near the coast, leaving the interior of the island almost untouched and authentic despite its proximity to the bustling capital of Papeete. As soon as you set foot on the tarmac, the warm air carrying a charming smell of tiare makes you feel like you’ve reached the other side of the world. The Tahitian tiare, literally “Tahitian flower”, is often wrongly called “tiare flower” which would be a pleonasm. It is the emblem of Polynesia, and a symbol for Polynesians: worn on the left ear, the person’s heart is taken; worn on the right, they are free to love!
Upon arrival at Faa’a airport, it is helpful to withdraw cash and purchase a 5G card for the duration of the stay. The Hilton hotel, ideally located in the North West of the island (near the airport, downtown Papeete and the marina), is perfect for a two or three night stay in Tahiti. This first stop allows you to get settled, get over jet lag and discover the island of Tahiti before exploring the rest of French Polynesia. From the Première Océan rooms, the panoramic view of the island of Moorea is breathtaking. A simpler alternative is the Chalet Suisse, a cozy guesthouse recommended by locals.
Enjoy a day or two in Tahiti to tour the island, stroll the market in Papeete, see the black sand beaches, discover the center of the island. Vaitea from Safari Islander offers a day trip in his pick up truck to reach hidden waterfalls. In July, the traditional dance performances (heiva) are wonderful, including the one at Marae ‘Ārahurahu (tickets can be booked online). If you stay an extra day, you can also reach Teahupoo: a village which was still unknown twenty years ago, before the famous wave (which can reach up to ten meters) made this peninsula famous, soon to be the surf spot for the 2024 Olympic Games.
As for restaurants, the roulottes are the way to go! The most recommended restaurants are Kozy (the front and back of house teams are 100% female, and the charming owner Kirahu takes into account the rhythm of each person’s family life), Maru Maru, the Snack du bout du monde (if you happen to be in Teahupoo), or Café Maeva at the market.
Moorea
Upon arrival in Moorea, the air smells of pineapple fields, and the landscape is surprisingly green: lush hills as far as the eye can see, an incredible playground for hikers. Moorea is accessible by plane, but most often by ferry from Tahiti – there are two companies, Aremiti and Terevau, the first being more highly recommended by the locals. It is imperative to rent a car to fully enjoy Moorea, either at the Faa’a airport or at the Moorea pier. There is no shortage of hotels and guesthouses in Moorea, and travelers often recommend the Sofitel, the Moorea Beach Lodge, or the Manava. Go on an adventure on the island’s trails by choosing among the hikes: Mount Belvedere, the three coconut trees, the great loop, the Afareaitu waterfall, the magic mountain, the pineapple fields… A quad bike tour allows you to discover the island if you don’t have the time to discover it on foot.
Two excursions are unmissable at sea. The first one with Hereiti and her boat Manahere Adventures, to go around Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, and swim with dolphins, rays, turtles and lemon sharks. And the second, only from July to November, with Pierrick Seybald (founder of Moorea Moana Tours, Pacifik Attitude and the Ma’o Mana Foundation which seeks to protect the oceans) to go swimming with whales, always at a distance and respecting the marine ecosystem. It is also possible to visit Te mana o te Moana, the care center for sea turtles. Or to go to mass on a Sunday (Saint Joseph, Saint Michel or Sainte Famille churches), because the fervor and the Polynesian songs will touch all those who enter these places.
As for restaurants, Moorea is surely the island with the largest variety of options! For lunch, a mahi mahi with coconut milk at the Snack Mahana (arrive early because it gets packed fast), or a lobster at Coco Beach, a small corner of paradise on a motu (the restaurant picks up its customers by boat at the North West of the island). For dinner, Keiki (delicate food from a food truck overlooking a small garden, and the owners are delightful), Coco d’Isle (a friendly restaurant and exceptional swordfish), No Stress (raw fish and lobster, as well as vegetarian options), or Lézard Jaune (a mythical restaurant run by Philippe and Dominique, the friendly owners). And for snacks, an artisanal ice cream (tiare, Tahitian vanilla, and excellent jams) at the Opunohu Lycée agricole or a juice at the Tropical Garden before going on a hike. There is also the Moorea Food Tour with Heimata Hall, a native of Moorea: a unique culinary experience and discovery of the local food and culture. But also the Food&CookLab, a project incubator that supports those involved in agro-processing: farmer Audrey Lachaud and chef Marc Lintang offer culinary workshops to showcase local produce. Finally, a day trip by boat allows you to discover the famous ahima’a, aka four tahitien, delicious food stewed for hours on a private motu.
Raiatea
A 45-minute flight from Tahiti and Moorea, Raiatea is considered the most sacred island in the region. The green-carpeted mountains rise up to the clouds from which the famous Mount Temehani emerges. The expansion of the Polynesians throughout the Pacific began from the marae of Taputapuatea. After receiving blessings during ceremonies and sacred celebrations, the sailors left in traditional dugout canoes to conquer the big blue: Hawaii, New Zealand…
It is very useful to rent a car in Raiatea (no big brands, reservations are made directly with Raiatea Location for example), especially staying in the South of the island. The most charming hotel is undoubtedly the Opoa Beach, which is unique because there are only nine bungalows, and the feeling of exclusivity is incomparable: alone in the world on this sacred land at the end of the world. The Océan bungalows are directly on the beach, with a large terrace and a hammock.
Just a stone’s throw away from the hotel is the Taputapuatea marae, a sacred place and the highlight of this island (classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), as well as the Alain Abel vanilla plantation, which is very interesting to see – and in particular to learn that vanilla, which is fertilized by hand every day, is part of the same family as orchids and is the second most expensive spice on Earth! Polynesian vanilla is famous for being the best in the world, ahead of Madagascar or Reunion Island vanillas. Explore the rest of the island on foot or on horseback, take a pirogue on the Faaroa River, and get lost in the lush valleys. From Raiatea, it is possible to take a day trip to Taha’a, the neighboring island where you can meet local artisans (rum, pearls, etc).
Restaurants are less numerous than in Moorea or Tahiti, but the Opoa Beach restaurant is an ideal spot with its inventive cuisine based on local produce: organic fruits and vegetables from the Fenua, squids from Raiatea, sea crabs, lobsters, mahi mahi varos, jacks, etc. Don’t miss Villa Ixora, whose owners used to run the Vahine Island, known as the best restaurant on the island.
Cruise and Taha’a
If time and budget permit, a catamaran cruise is an unforgettable way to discover Polynesia from a different perspective. Tahiti Yacht Charter offers itineraries from Raiatea and Huahine to Bora Bora, with a stopover in Taha’a. The 36 or 40 foot catamarans are large enough to accommodate several guests, as well as a skipper and a cook. Over the course of the days, we pass by the motu Mahaea and its white sand beach, the motu TauTau and its coral garden, Apu Bay and its pearl farm, and finally the lagoon of Bora Bora and Povai Bay. During the cruise, many items are available on board: kayak, paddle, masks and fins, semi-rigid dinghy, etc. Discovering Bora Bora by sea is a unique perspective, far from the big hotels and close to nature.
For those who wish to spend a few days in Taha’a, it is possible to sleep on this small island worthy of Robinson Crusoe: the Relais & Châteaux Taha’a by Pearl Resort, the Fare Pea Iti, and the Vahine Island. Everything can be done on foot or by bike, and don’t miss the half lobster or lemon crab Chez Louise. The smells of Polynesia, always: in the Vanilla Valley, east of Taha’a, you can smell the vanilla, soft and sweet, in the breeze.
Bora Bora
Romantics around the world celebrate Bora Bora, where the tropical slopes and lush valleys of Mount Otemanu bloom with hibiscus, while palm-covered motus encircle the lagoon. White sand beaches combine with azure waters where colorful fish enliven coral gardens from which manta rays emerge.
There is no shortage of hotels to choose from, from family-run guesthouses to large international brands. For luxury and privacy, the St. Regis Hotel is ideal, with its overwater villas and glass floors on the turquoise waters. Their private lagoonarium is a protected underwater sanctuary that is home to a multitude of tropical fish and coral species, including the extraordinary Napoleon fish. The restaurant Lagoon by Jean-Georges, by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and executive chef Nicolas Nguyen, is considered one of the best restaurants in French Polynesia. Located right above the water, it has a terrace and glass panels to admire a variety of fish and sharks.
During the day, you should also discover the village of Vaitape, the mythical Bloody Mary’s bar, swim with flying manta rays and admire Mount Otemanu by quad bike or by hiking. Bora Bora is synonymous with relaxation, it is one of the islands where you should choose a nice hotel to enjoy it as much as possible.
Rangiroa
Head for the Tuamotu archipelago, which is even more of a Robinson Crusoe paradise than the Society archipelago. In the Tuamotu, there are no big green and luxuriant mountains, it is the world of clear sand beaches and turquoise waters. Rangiroa is the second largest atoll in the world, composed of 240 motus that emerge from a coral belt creating an inland sea that has become a diver’s paradise. Rangiroa is surrounded by different oceans: moana-tea (the Pacific Ocean), which defines the essence of the lagoon, and moana-uri (the wild ocean), where whales, manta rays, dolphins and sharks dance daily.
The two most famous hotels on the island are the Kia Ora and the Relais Josephine, a charming guesthouse located right in front of the Tiputa pass, where the current changes direction several times a day, making the dolphins jump and dance. A real show right in front of the Océan bungalows!
The days are quickly filled, between bike rides on the motu Avatoru, the discovery of a vineyard next to a coconut grove (Domaine Dominique Aury), a drift in the Avatoru pass, as well as boat trips to discover the three mythical places: le lagon bleu, l’île aux récifs, and l’île aux sables roses (organized with Ugo Mazzavillani from Orava Excursions). Not to mention snorkeling and diving with The 6 Passengers, in the midst of multicolored fish, turtles, rays, dolphins, and sharks. Jacques Cousteau said that these are some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world! However do note that it is not possible to scuba dive within 12 hours of an inter-island flight.
Dinners are included in the half-board at the Relais Josephine, but do not hesitate to book at the Kia Ora on Wednesday or Sunday evenings to admire a Polynesian dance. Lunches can be taken at the Relais Josephine in front of the dolphins, or at the snack bar Chez Lili where everything is delicious but you should not be in a hurry!
Tikehau
About 500 inhabitants live in Tikehau, on this land they call “the home of a quiet world”. The pink sandy beaches mirror the turquoise water in a dazzling display of beauty. Once a week, the ferry arrives from Tahiti to supply the atoll of Tikehau with vegetables, gasoline, and building materials, making local life possible.
There are very few hotels on this Tuamotu island, and Tikehau by Pearl Resorts (located on motu Tiano) is the only one that offers overwater bungalows. Note that it is closing in 2023 for renovations, but the rest of the Pearl group can be discovered in Taha’a, Bora Bora, Tahiti, and Nuku Hiva!
Tikehau Ocean Tour offers private day trips by boat, swimming with manta rays, discovering the coral garden, playing with dolphins. And the highlight of the show, a picnic on a private motu, absolutely alone in the world. L’île aux oiseaux is also a wonderful place to discover.
Tetiaroa
“More beautiful than anything I could have ever imagined”: these are the words of Marlon Brando when he discovered Tetiaroa, during the shoot of Mutiny on the Bounty. He fell in love with this atoll, bought it and lived there until 1990. Today it is an intimate, eco-responsible hotel with only 35 private villas, opened in 2014 by Richard Bailey and completely energy self-sufficient.
A breathtaking destination, Tetiaroa is not accessible to everyone: there is only one hotel on this exclusive island, with very few rooms at a high price. But the Brando is one of the most beautiful hotels in the world, an extraordinary experience in a timeless place. After a short flight on Air Tetiaroa, the Brando is the ideal destination to end a stay in Polynesia. Every day, excursions are offered (to discover the fauna, the flora, the sea…) as well as a massage at the Varua te Ora spa. Paddles, kayaks and pirogues are also available to discover the surroundings. In the evening, you can admire the Milky Way, taking advantage of the absence of artificial lights to better observe the sky. Depending on the time of year, turtles give birth on the beaches of Tetiaroa: another spectacle of nature to watch out for at night. The restaurants are diverse and varied: Les Mutinés (one Michelin star, by executive chef Pierre Lecorne), Nami (remarkable teppanyaki by chef Kaito Nakamura), or the Beachcomber Café (on the beach, open from breakfast to dinner).
Other islands
French Polynesia is as multiple as it is varied, with several archipelagos: Australes, Gambier, Marquises, Society and Tuamotu. Each island has its own identity, a different soul or “mana”. It would be impossible to discover them all in one trip, but Polynesia always invites you to come back. Beyond the islands listed in this article, the other famous ones are Maupiti (in the Society archipelago, with a magnificent hike on Mount Teurafaatiu), Huahine (where Tahiti Yacht Charter also leaves from), Fakarava (in the Tuamotu, a diver’s paradise but a little more rustic than Rangiroa and Tikehau), or Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa (both in the Marquesas, the “land of men” where time seems to have stood still).
Practical details
Tahiti is only an 8 hour flight from Los Angeles, and almost 20 hours from Paris including the layover in the United States. Air Tahiti Nui is by far the best company to make this trip, with the feeling that the change of scenery begins as soon as you board: the omnipresent smiles of the crew, the fresh tiare (emblematic flower of Polynesia) and the lagoon colors set the tone! The airline recently renewed its fleet, acquiring Boeing Dreamliners that make travel more pleasant, faster and more ecological. Voted best airline in the South Pacific by Global Traveler magazine in 2021, Air Tahiti Nui minimizes the use of plastic and offers passengers the opportunity to offset their carbon emissions with various reforestation projects. airtahitinui.com
Inter-island flights are operated by Air Tahiti, which offers passes for several islands or archipelagos. Air Tahiti covers a network of 47 islands in French Polynesia, over an area as large as Europe. The fleet is mainly composed of ATR aircraft, consuming 40% less CO₂ than equivalent jets. Boarding is extremely easy, and the flight itself is a beautiful journey, high over turquoise waters and landing on small runways amidst coconut trees. airtahiti.com
Tahiti Yacht Charter organizes customized cruises between Raiatea (or Huahine) and Bora Bora with a stop in Taha’a. Aboard private sailing catamarans with a caring crew (skipper and cook), you will discover a unique French Polynesia, by the sea and the turquoise blue lagoons through the îles Sous-le-Vent. tahitiyachtcharter.com
For more information on the islands and activities, the Tahiti Tourism Office website offers a lot of valuable advice, or even personalized guides. tahititourisme.fr
As for what to pack, bring reef shoes, they are almost always necessary. And although the weather is nice almost all year round in French Polynesia, rain is unpredictable so keep a light raincoat in your bag! And depending on the island, roosters can crow very early in the morning (like in Hawaii), so earplugs will be very useful.