Toulouse may not be the first city you think of when one mentions France, but don’t be mistaken, it definitely deserves not to be forgotten on your next trip. The city is about two hours from anything, so is brilliantly situated if you want to go to the beach (Atlantic or Mediterranean), the mountains or another town. Toulouse’s characteristic bricks have given the city its nickname “la ville rose” (the pink city), which is beautiful during the different times of day. The Garonne river that divides the city in two gives the visitor the opportunity to cool down by the water, or walk up and down the river under the canopy of the trees. Gastronomically situated in the South of France, it is undeniable that wine and duck pop up on many menus, but also, Toulouse sausage, cassoulet, and also anything that comes from the violet flower.
Eat
– Midi-Minuit. This could only be at the top of the list as it is one of the most outstanding restaurants in Toulouse. This is traditional and local bistro food—usually served with a twist (gin and tonic baba’s are a true revelation)! There is enough choice for even the pickiest eater, and don’t fret, everything is made on the premises! Highlights include foie gras, duck chimichurri and their seasonal ravioli. The decor is simple and aesthetically pleasing, service is familial and honest — and it comes with a complimentary shot of Sailor Jerry at the end of the meal! Come for lunch, dinner or brunch, it’s open from midi to minuit!
– La Fiancée. The space is quite tight, so claustrophobes should probably refrain. The place is also open all week and makes true to form real coffee. You can also choose from a variety of coffees (but sorry tea lovers, you won’t find happiness here!). Don’t leave La Fiancée without tasting their cookies. Heaven on a plate! Their brunch is the showstopper, the various seasonal options come one after the other to the table, and each are a delicious surprise.
– La Gouaille. Probably the restaurant that every Toulousian has been to multiple times. You won’t find anything fancy here, just good honest fare, and don’t be fooled, it’s cheap and cheerful. For those looking for a restaurant open on a Sunday and Monday in France, this is where you go. At under 13€ for salad in the summer, or soup in the winter and a main, hard to find anywhere cheaper that isn’t a fast food. Here the decor is old school funky, cool jazz and blues is usually played and the food is what your mother would make… this comfortable place is great for friends and family.
– L’Alimentation. If you want to see and be seen in Toulouse, this is prime people watching real estate. Great decor, excellent wine selection and the food is delectable. Here you can stock up on any ingredients from far-flung countries you could possibly desire all while enjoying a glass of Pomerol, and chow down on roasted bone marrow with confit garlic or confit duck ravioli. The plates are of a pretty good size, and can be shared around the table (or not!).
– Chez Rosa. This Spanish-themed tapas restaurant is too cool for its own good. The prices are reasonable (although the wine list is slightly pricey for the city standards), the decor is simple and the music is always playing old-skool funky beats. But be warned, reservation is a must, and the space is a slightly tight fit (or intimate for those who like that!). If Catalan inspired food is what you are looking for, then the menu won’t be unfamiliar. Don’t hesitate too long, once a dish is sold out, it’s sold out: Iberian ham, tortillas, calamari, pan con tomate…
– Sixta. Sixta serves lunch from Monday to Saturday, but has a great afternoon tea and cakes. It even offers sleeping cocoons for those who want to laze around and nap after their vegetarian/vegan feast. The food is generous, the portions are even more so, and the decor is hippy chic. Seriously though, you don’t have to be meat free to enjoy this place. This is a lush green yummy haven.
– The Winter Garden. The gratin dauphinois is truly the star of the show (as well as the friendly fast service). The starters are free, and the mains vary from grilled duck breast, entrecote steak or even salmon. Every dish is served with either fries or dauphinoise potatoes, and you will not be able to finish your meal on an empty stomach.
– Les P’tits Fayots. What this restaurant lacks in size, it certainly doesn’t in flavour. This is a restaurant for those who aren’t faint of heart, who want to be surprised at every mouthful. Please take the tasting menu, disappointment is an impossibility, and they are terribly accommodating if you have any food you can’t or won’t eat. Take the risk and see where this taste trip takes you.
– Le Bibent. The Bibent is undeniably a beautiful space, in the Belle-Époque style. Nothing out of the ordinary if one is familiar with traditional French food, but why change something that’s already pretty fantastic? Try the classic Cassoulet, but if it’s something sweet you are looking for, then the Bibent Millefeuille is an absolute steal!
– Les Sales Gosses. Reservations need to be made weeks in advance, but you will not be disappointed. There are two menus to choose from : classic and discovery, and then it is up to you whether you want an appetizer, a main or a dessert (or all three!). The prices are ridiculously cheap when one thinks of the work that goes into the food. The decor is simple and intimate; people aren’t here for anything else but the food, and no wonder.
Drink
– The Coffee Pot. This spot is best enjoyed in the morning, savoring the early sunlight, a warm croissant and a coffee with a book. Great service. All the food, whether for lunch or just their afternoon fare, are all made daily and fresh, be it bagels, cakes and biscuits. And they have the best lattes in town!
– N°5 Wine Bar. It has officially been the best wine bar in the world for the past two years, so it doesn’t really need the publicity: this place is busy all the time! They don’t take reservations, so get there early. The wine list is absolutely insane (if you have the budget, they probably stock it), and let’s not forget to mention the food : truffled egg, pata negra, pâté with green peppercorns, but also foie gras, ham and cheese…
– L’Alimentation (Le Bar à Vin). This contemporary place is a beautiful blank canvas; the space just has that cool vibe every wine bar wants. The wine list is international, so you will definitely find something to tickle your fancy.
– Les Boulistes. If you want to play a friendly game of boules while you enjoy great wine, beer and gin cocktails, this is the place to go. Plenty of space to sit and drink on their great terrace, as well and partake in some fun people-watching. They also serve pinxos, tapas on sticks inspired by the Spanish Basque region. You pay for the individual items, just bring back the coloured wooden toothpicks and voila!
– Côté Vin. This local bar is where a wary traveller and shopper can sit down as the sun goes down to enjoy a glass of two of regional wines. Try a distinctive Corbières, or let yourself be tempted by a Tariquet ou a Madiran with slices of cured ham.
– Le Sylène. This is a bit of a Toulousian secret and you can find it in front of the Saint-George’s church in the shade of the trees there. It has a beautiful old fashioned vibe about it, very Belle-Époque, and you will be hard pressed to find many tourists here. Most people come here early in the morning to enjoy an espresso and read the newspaper, and when the sun sets, the wine bottles pop open and it’s officially aperitif time.
– The Dispensary. This groovy punk inspired space is truly different. They have a large range of beer and cider on tap, as well as cocktails and homemade shots, most people come here for the mouth-watering drinks, especially the Cry Baby Collins and the Time’N’Tide. The bar food is fabulous too.
– La Maison. During the winter you can enjoy the fireplace and play board games, while you relish in some wine, beer and cocktails too. This is the cosiest of bars, with an old–fashioned ambiance.
– Ma Biche sur le Toit. This is probably one of the most famous bars on this list, although one comes here more for the view more, than for the food or drinks. The Saint Germain spritz is a must have here.
Do
– City walk. Start from the Saint-Sernin church, then to the Capitole Square, then meander past all the boulangerie shops to the Daurade, where you can find bars, vintage shops and restaurants, and while you take in the river, don’t hesitate to continue walking by the river to Saint-Pierre.
– Les Abattoirs. Cross over the bridge and you will find yourself at the Abattoirs, contemporary art museum. There are a few museums and galleries in Toulouse, but the best are the Abattoirs, the Bemberg Foundation and the Augustins Museums.
– Le Jardin des Plantes. Cuter family park that also houses the Museum, a natural history museum, that is truly awe-inspiring.
– TNT (Theatre National de Toulouse). The plays are usually in French, but do not despair, they are very contemporary and easily understood.
This review was written by In The Loup contributor Roxane Laslett.