Osteria Mozza

If it is true that Italian cuisine is much less “popular” (in the true sense of the term) in Los Angeles than in France, Osteria Mozza is the paroxysm of this theory. The fancy Osteria has great owners: Nancy Silverton, founder of La Brea Bakery and ex Michael’s and Spago, Mario Batali, TV-chef with a famous ponytail, as well as Joe Bastianich, restaurateur and son of Lydia. You can’t start without some antipasti, such as the leeks in vinaigrette with decadent burrata — all the cheeses are imported from Italy. Then order some orecchiette to share, or a single raviolo ($22) with ricotta, egg yolk, and brown sugar. Go easy on the secondi to keep room for the dessert bombolini with a huckleberry compote and citrusy mascarpone. Flush it all down thanks to the Italian wine list, and an after-dinner Amaro. Like at Bestia, reservations need to be made weeks ahead: but don’t panic, the mozzarella bar is first-come-first-served, and you might even have dinner in front of Nancy Silverton.